my jaunts: 22 hours in new orleans

beats and jazz at maison on frenchman street

beats and jazz at maison on frenchman street

last week, i found myself in new orleans for exactly 22 hours.  per my flight itinerary, it was 23 hours, but that sneaky daylight savings time robbed me of an hour sometime during my two hours of “sleep” before i had to head to the airport.  i was in town for my sister-in-law’s bachelorette party, and fell in love all over again with the crazy city (city? does that even adequately describe the crazy hodgepodge that new orleans is?).  it has that vibe that i tried to explain a couple of months ago, that slaps you in the face the moment you leave the airport.  it’s poor but vibrant, seemingly down and up at the same time.

jazz, tourists, poverty. #neworleans

jazz, tourists, poverty. #neworleans

the 22 hours included a mix of typical new orleans events that may not be so normal elsewhere.  al fresco jazz brunch with morning bloodies and crawfish étouffée.  a second line wedding parade through the french quarter.  palm readings.

a second line wedding parade through the french quarter

a second line wedding parade through the french quarter

time for brunch and bloodies

time for brunch and bloodies

meeting adrian, an artist in the midst of his self-proclaimed mid-life crisis, with his enterprising dog who encourages his customers to “buy more art.”  watching hipsters practice a strange yet hypnotizing mix of yoga and acrobatics in jackson square.  enterprising break dancing and eclectic locals.

buy more art, people. specifically, from this guy.

buy more art, people. specifically, from this guy.

mesmerized by these guys at jackson square

mesmerized by these guys at jackson square

fried alligator and fried shrimp po’boys and abita beer.  creole mansions on esplanade avenue.  jazz on frenchman street, but most importantly the hybrid jazz/r&b/hip-hop that i fell in love with last summer at maison.  beads and cobblestones and lights and laughter.  but mainly, all that jazz.

the slick skillet serenaders

the slick skillet serenaders

french quarter still life

french quarter still life

twenty-two hours isn’t much, but it was enough to get under my skin a bit before returning to the real world.

bright day in the quarter

bright day in the quarter

the daily french quarter clean-up

the daily french quarter clean-up

my jaunts: new orleans jazz

new orleans was always intriguing to me.  so close to where i grew up in oklahoma, but seemingly miles away in every other sense:  the food, the jazz, the slight sense of grit and corruption that lies just beneath the surface of its varied architecture.  i’ve known people who have moved to new orleans for school and then never left.  they say it gets in you and you can’t leave, even if you try.  so i was excited to (finally) explore the town and understand this spirit of new orleans.

jazz and beats at maison on frenchmen street

jazz and beats at maison on frenchmen street

we traveled with friends and found the most amazingly quintessential new orleans house on airbnb in the heart of frenchmen street, just across the street from washington square park.  note: do not stay in the french quarter.  rather, stay here, on frenchmen, amongst the jazz bars and the outdoor art market, and only a short walk away from the quarter (if you must, if only for cafe du monde beignets).

ok, cafe du monde is worth it. skip the line and go sit down: first come, first serve.

ok, cafe du monde is worth it. skip the line and go sit down: first come, first serve.

the jazz bars on frenchmen were my favorite part of new orleans.  walking up frenchmen, loud and urgent jazz rushes from inside the clubs and greets you, demanding you step in for a while.  should you accept, you’ll most likely find packed spaces, locals sipping abita beer, and potentially a bachelorette party or two.  step into the spotted cat music club, a small bar recommended by new york times’ 36 hours, where i spent the good part of an hour enthralled by the couples who charged in and started swing dancing with such purpose that it was both thrilling and catatonic.

dancers and jazz at the spotted club music club

dancers and jazz at the spotted club music club

some bars require reservations for seats (such as snug harbor jazz bistro), while others pull you in spontaneously as you walk by.  one night, we walked past maison when we heard a mix of hip hop and jazz coming from inside.  it was different and immediately piqued my interest, and i couldn’t help but dance along.  we walked in to find a group of around eight guys, all young, that switched between rapping and raucous playing of their instruments (think: kanye’s “all of the lights,” though younger and more raw).  at one point, one member left the club to go outside for a smoke break.  he couldn’t resist the music, though, and started playing his trombone from the street in the middle of pedestrians walking by.  the music has a way of taking hold of you like that and not letting go.

maison jazz club

he couldn’t resist – a musician plays from the sidewalk during his smoke break

if the music at a particular place wasn’t doing it for us, we’d move on; there are too many bars offering different types of music that you should never settle for mediocrity.  our favorite spot one night would be boring the next.  keep walking, and you’ll find what you’re after.  some of my favorite spots (all within walking distance) were dba, spotted cat, and maison.  i also heard that blue nile was fantastic, though we never stepped inside.

live jazz at d.b.a. - lots of dancing here

live jazz at d.b.a. – lots of dancing here

each night, we’d walk up frenchmen, listen to jazz, dance along, drink, and cheer for more.  between sets we’d switch locations or stroll through the outdoor art market just next door (check out brett henderson’s booth for some really cool photos overlaid with maps of new orleans).

the art market on frenchmen street

the art market on frenchmen street

walking back to the house post-jazz, we’d buy pizza at the pop-up pizza pirate (it’s literally in the shape of a pirate ship) and sit on our balcony overlooking washington square park listening to the lingering jazz and conversations of late-night walkers pass by. this was new orleans by night, the time to see the city for what it is.  now that i’ve seen its spirit, i’m a believer.

the best of frenchmen street

the best of frenchmen street

my favorite time of year: the summer travel season

the summer 2014 travel lineup

the summer 2014 travel lineup

somehow, miraculously, my busiest time at work is over.  it seems too good to be true, but after several 80+ hour weeks, and many more 70+ hour weeks, i’m ready to explore something other than a corporate office.  thanks for your patience these past few months – more frequent blog posts to return shortly.

while not necessarily recommended, work stress does have one positive impact on me: it forces me to plan vacations.  i love having something to look forward to, a celebration for the end in sight.  or in this case, not just a single celebration, but many!  i am so excited for the travel lineup this summer, i can hardly wait.  after agonizing over the budget with my husband (we set aside a certain amount each month to make sure we can travel to the extent we like, foregoing other luxuries like nicer cars or a bigger house), we’re booked for the following locations:

the stunning texas hill country

the stunning texas hill country

  • road trip through texas – my husband is going on a bachelor party road trip through central and southeast texas, complete with bbq, biking, and beer.  i tried to insert myself into that soiree, but apparently it’s not very traditional for a female to join.  shame.  at least the wedding is in hill country, too.  thinking of buying myself a pair of boots for the occasion.  yeehaw.
the devil's backbone, outside of wimberley in texas hill country

the devil’s backbone, outside of wimberley in texas hill country

  • new york, new york – then it’s my turn for a bachelorette party in the city of cities.  my all time favorite, and this time i don’t have to plan a thing!  the last time i was in new york, i focused only on brooklyn, hardly venturing into manhattan.  while fantastic (and something i would definitely recommend), i’m ready to again be in an empire state of mind.
let's hear it for new york...

let’s hear it for new york…

  • los angeles (x2) – does it count as a vacation if you’ve lived there before?  i think so.  i’m looking forward to seeing old friends and partaking in several father’s office burgers (if you are ever in LA, you absolutely must try this burger.  as someone who counts cheeseburgers among her favorite foods, believe me when i say this burger is incredible).  and staying at the cottages in silverlake is always a treat.
the view from our cottage in silverlake, a favorite stay in los angeles

the view from our cottage in silverlake, a favorite stay in los angeles

  • new orleans, louisiana – is it crazy that i have never been to n’awlins before?  i think so!  so thrilled that my friend, stephanie, pushed our friends to book this trip.  it is shaping up to be a fabulous time with good food, great friends, and (hopefully) lots of jazz.  did  i mention good food?
new orleans, as shot by ed bierman at https://www.flickr.com/photos/edbierman/10798203675/

new orleans, as shot by ed bierman at https://www.flickr.com/photos/edbierman/10798203675/

  • south africa – yes!  we booked it!  it’s official!  i fell in love with southern africa after reading brendan van son’s blog last year when he rode a motorcyle through africa, and i couldn’t wait to see it myself (sans bike).  we’ll be taking the beginner’s guide to south africa as i like to call it, which includes about five days in cape town and five days in kruger national park.  so excited to explore the winelands, table mountain, and see the big 5 (the lion, rhinoceros, leopard, buffalo, and elephant).  one of our safari lodgings includes canvas walls so that “you can hear the animals and be that much closer to nature.” scared. out. of. my. mind.
cape town, south africa, as shot by eGuide travel at https://www.flickr.com/photos/eguidetravel/2919101197/

cape town, south africa, as shot by eGuide travel at https://www.flickr.com/photos/eguidetravel/2919101197/

  • mystery location – yes, you read that correctly.  it’s time for the biannual bestie trip, and we cannot decide where to go.  solution?  let’s wait until the last minute and play travel roulette and follow the deals!  we may end up in boise, but hey, i hear boise has it going on.

please, please tell me about your adventures this summer!  where are you going?  and would you like to write about them in a guest post?  i would love to feature them and hear  more!  i get so inspired from others’ vacations.