my jaunts: bath, england

a row of homes during our walking tour of bath from the mayor’s honorary guides.

last year, my husband and i were in devizes, england for a wedding, and found ourselves just 45 minutes away from the world heritage site town of bath.  i’d heard of the eponymous roman baths located in town, but honestly i thought the town sounded slightly boring and perhaps stuck in the past, most likely because the only thing i knew of the town was its ancient namesake.  however, we were so close and it seemed ridiculous to not go, so we decided to spend a day in bath before a weekend in london.  the day turned out to be one of my favorites of our entire trip, and i was so pleasantly surprised that i can’t wait to return!  bath was somehow both quaint and urban, charming and modern.  independently owned boutiques, restaurants, and pubs are scattered throughout the city center, which created a unique and vibrant mix of the past and present.

a view of the pultaney bridge over the avon river.

we drove from devizes and parked outside the old city of bath and caught a shuttle inside using the park and ride system, which provided shuttles every 15 minutes and dropped us off just a short walk from the roman baths.  (click here for information on visiting via other modes of transportation.)  we only spent 12 hours in bath, but we made the most of our time.  the itinerary for our day in bath is below.

the famous roman baths! yes, the water looks that green.

9:00am (during some parts of the year they do not open until 9:30am) – visit the roman baths (yes, you must see these)! the romans built a temple over the naturally-occurring hot springs in 60-70AD following their invasion of england, and it has been modified and updated ever since.  the self-guided tour is extremely well done, and allows you to stroll through the temple and baths at your own pace, which could take anywhere from 1-2 hours.  while you can’t relax in the warm waters here, you are able to at multiple nearby spas.  if you’re interested in testing out the waters, check out some of the spas here.

an adorable theater (theatre) on our walking tour of bath with the mayor’s honorary guides.

10:30am – take the FREE two-hour walking tour offered by the mayor’s honorary guides.  it provides an excellent stroll through the town that captures the main sites and gives you a feel for what you’d like to see more of in the afternoon.  also, it’s free.  the tour covers all parts of town, including the avon river, pultaney bridge, the circus, the royal crescent, queen’s square, and more.  tours begin and end around the corner from the roman baths, in front of the pump house and bath abbey.

lunch at same same but different was delightful.

12:30pm – lunch at same same but different.  located in the more urban downtown area of bath, this delightfully laid back café has delicious sandwiches, salads, and tapas with a mediterranean bent.  the food was flavorful and fresh, and the service was extremely friendly.  due to its highly trafficked location, there is great people watching as locals and tourists stroll by.

the lush patio at colonna and smalls coffee house.

2pm – shop and stroll through the middle of town.  i had found several shops that i wanted to check out, and shopping and walking in the compact city center made for a delightful afternoon.  mr. b’s emporium was the most perfect independent bookstore with three floors of charming rooms packed full of books of all genres.  i browsed for upwards of an hour before settling on ali smith’s how to be both (which i highly recommend).   the grace & ted designer resale clothing store was another surprising gem, and is where i purchased a chloe sweater and my husband purchased a classic barbour jacket, still his favorite today.  the store has two floors of designer clothes at reasonable prices.  we stopped for a mid-afternoon coffee at the hipster colonna & small’s, which probably takes itself a little too seriously, but the coffee was admittedly delicious and the back patio provided a lush reprieve from the minimalist interior.

a room inside the wonderful mr. b’s emporium!

4:30pm – work up an appetite by walking cross-town through shops and over the avon river to sydney gardens.  the park is beautiful and we rested a bit while we watched locals head home from work.  we then stopped for an early evening beer at the salamander pub.  the pub stop (most any pub will do) is a must.

a walk through sydney gardens (and my husband is wearing his new barbour coat from grace and ted!).

7pm – dinner at yak yeti yak, a basement nepalese restaurant.  yes, it seems odd to eat nepalese food in bath, but it had some of the highest yelp reviews in town and was reasonably priced, so we thought “why not?”  the food was delicious and memorable.

dinner at the nepalese restaurant, yak yeti yak.

who should go: history buffs, lovers of jane austen (she lived here for a bit and northanger abbey takes place in bath)

what to read: northanger abbey

what to pack: comfortable walking shoes and a light umbrella in case of rain (tours are rain or shine)

jane austen’s northanger abbey is set in bath. grab a coffee and immerse yourself in stories of love in bath!

my favorites: local instagram accounts that inspire wanderlust

with a new baby at home, there aren’t many travel plans on my horizon (unless you count our recent drive to houston which took almost seven hours due to stops for baby bottles and toddler bathroom breaks – eek!). as a result, i’ve recently acquired a serious case of wanderlust that has involved a significant increase of travel pins on pinterest, and a growing list of places to visit in the next few years.

instagram has also been a welcome refuge, giving me a view into uncharted territories, and allowing me to see life on the other side of the globe, even during 3am feedings.  the instagram accounts that i’ve shared below are by people across the world who provide daily glimpses into life in their city or country.

france

@bonjourmarinmontagut

marin montagut is an artist based in paris whose illustrations on scarves, tote bags, prints, etc. have me yearning for a trip to the french countryside. his instagram stories are even better than his feed, with plentiful scenes of idyllic picnics in meadows, colorful travels to morocco, and charming french homes.  also, his curly hair, large smile, and blue and white striped shirts are trés chic.

Bonsoir Printemps #apero #rooftop #paris

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@fattireparis

fat tire tours offer english-speaking tours within paris and the surrounding area. their feed is full of bright photos of the best cafés, pastries, museums, and neighborhoods, and they regularly share stories on their blog on their favorite finds throughout the city.  my recent favorites included their photo shares of hotel panache and l’éclair de genie desserts.  i find myself pinning many of their suggestions for future trips to the city of lights (and I most definitely want to take their bike tour of monet’s home and gardens).

america

the next two accounts include some of the most splendid photos of america’s natural beauty.

@kevinruss

kevin russ is a photographer who has inspired me so much that i purchased a large photo of a horse from him to go above our fireplace. constantly on the road and shooting from his iphone, his photos of nature are both breathtaking and simple.  a recent project includes a postcard subscription service.

Rae lakes

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@brooke_weeber

brooke weeber is an illustrator based in portland, oregon whose work is under the name little canoe.  while her illustrations are wonderful, it’s her photos of her daily life that are most beautiful.  photos of camping, hiking, and mountain climbing in the pacific northwest have me wanting to rush to REI to buy a tent (and if you know me, you know this is not something i would normally do).  her photos provide a sense of peace and calm that is refreshing when scrolling through instagram.

istanbul

@istanbultimes

i stumbled onto this account when they started following me, and i just love it. located in istanbul, the hotel ibrahim pasha posts photos of daily life in the city – street scenes, markets, public squares, etc.  i’ve never visited turkey – though it is high on my list – and these photos give a sense of the city and its people in a pleasantly unposed way.  i also had no idea how beautiful of a city instanbul was until following this account; there are stunning buildings, mosques, cobblestone streets, and cafés.

copenhagen (and beyond)

@katiearmour

i’ve been following katie since her days at matchbook mag, and since i learned of our mutual love for pugs, matisse, and beautiful textiles.  she recently moved from new york to copenhagen, and i cannot get enough of her gorgeous photos of the city.  katie is also a frequent traveler, and i’m constantly in awe of her photos of places such as london, jaipur, paris, and istanbul.  katie’s blog, katie considers (fka the neo-traditionalist), is also worth a follow if you appreciate good style.

Evening strolls in our hood #visitcopenhagen

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india

@banjanan

i learned of @banjanan when @katiearmour traveled to india several months ago. banjanan is a clothing line from caroline weller, and is based in jaipur, india.  in addition to behind-the-scenes shots of her clothing line, she also shares scenes from her life.  recent favorites of mine included shots of her pug, rosie, and videos from the week when three men hand-painted  a wall in her house (the details!). the colors are bright, but even brighter is caroline’s dedication to sustainable processes and a fair wage for her workers.

everywhere!

@withthelocals

each week, a new city is highlighted by a local resident of that city. i have pinned so many suggestions from their guides that i’ve stopped counting.  i truly believe that the best way to travel is with local recommendations, and @withthelocals makes this possible.  recent cities included los angeles, london, oakland, nashville, barcelona, and madison.

do you know of any good accounts that i’m missing? i’m in search for great local feeds from japan, southeast asia, and south america – any ideas?

my jaunts: india

the market side of the taj mahal – stunning colors.

over a year has officially passed since my last post, and unsurprisingly it has been a full 19 months!  my son is now 22 months old, and i’m back in the swing of things at work.  i’ve also traveled a fair amount since February 2016 and it saddens me to think that I haven’t had a chance to write down my memories.  one trip in particular was a completely unique and unforgettable experience: india.

the stunning taj mahal!

i’ve always been intrigued by india.  a country full of intensity in color, sound, smell, flavor, people, and spirituality has always enticed me.  thanks to alanis morrissette and liz gilbert, i just knew i would arrive in india and find the clarity for which i’ve searched all these years.  so when an invitation at work to teach training in india popped up in my inbox, i pushed aside thoughts of the logistical nightmare of a two-week trip (that required me to leave my 10-month old behind – i mean, honestly), and eagerly replied yes to the opportunity.

visitors at the taj mahal in ALL OF THE COLORS!

enough time has passed where i can say with much confidence that i would return, and i would return with excitement.  but the trip at the time was a tough one, despite the comforts of business travel that allowed me to fly and stay in significantly more comfort than a personal trip would have allowed.

welcome to india! lush landscapes, wonderful people, rickshaws, colonial architecture: i fell in love with this country.

there are many reasons not to go to india.  first, i had to obtain a business visa, the process of which is confusing and non-sensical, even with my exceptional organizational skills (not-so-humble brag).  it took me almost a week to properly fill out the forms, obtain the proper approvals, drive to the visa location in houston, and ensure my passport with said visa would arrive back in time to book my flight.  also, india is generally not safe for foreign women to travel alone.  i was required to travel with a firm-appointed driver, and not allowed to walk alone to a restaurant down the street from my five-star hotel (which had a gate manned by a guard who checked under the car and in the trunk).  additionally, depending on the destination, india is very hot (turns out bangalore was not, but more on that later), and women must dress more conservatively (not necessarily a “con” but certainly an adjustment for this texas girl who is used to shorts in 90+ degree weather).  and I would be remiss if i did not mention the driving, which involves no lanes, more cars than you’ve ever seen (unless, of course, you’ve been to india), and a complete disregard for traffic laws (though i did witness nine lanes of highway traffic come to a complete halt for a pedestrian pulling a large wooden tea wagon).

a typical traffic jam in delhi, full of bumper-to-bumper cars, trucks, buses, rickshaws, and hand-pulled wagons.

in general, india is just tough if you’re used to the united states.  it’s a developing country and many of the things we take for granted (e.g. continuous electricity, drinkable water, electronic documents) just aren’t always around.  there was definitely a point in the middle of the second week when i was weary from travel, which was an unfamiliar feeling for me during a trip abroad (travel is literally my favorite thing to do).

i adored all of the hand-painted trucks in india! i saw this one in agra.

all that being said, the pros to visiting india definitely outweigh the cons.  india is an experience more so than simply a destination.  its people, who i learned from my students, are warm, inviting, empathic, helpful, and extremely interested in making friends.  my students’ families cooked dinner for me and my students would sing songs for me to share their culture.  the food was fantastic (kebabs! banta!), the colors were as intensely bright as i had hoped, and the country was lush in vegetation and natural beauty.

an upscale (and adult) twist on the popular children’s fruit drink, banta. so delicious! india knows flavors.

i started in bangalore, located in southern india on the deccan plateau, and enjoyed a drive around town in the wildly southern california-esque weather.  my driver, raj, was a treasure trove of information and drove me to an outdoor market where locals shopped for food while cows lounged all around (when we pulled up to the market and a cow was outside my door, raj encouraged me to get out.  “but are they dangerous?” i asked.  “sometimes!” was his reply.).

a woman and a cow outside of a neighborhood market in bangalore. cows are everywhere!

from bangalore i traveled to agra, the home of the taj mahal.  it is difficult to describe how painstakingly detailed the construction of the mausoleum is, and the intricacies of the marble work reminded me of the carvings of the al hambra in grenada, spain.  the town of agra was worth seeing in its own right, as our van passed a flurry of activity of markets, people, cows, bright orange buildings with shaded openings, families stacked on mopeds, musicians, more people, shops, homes, monkeys scurrying atop buildings, more cows, more people, bicycles.  it seemed like the true india that i was missing from my five-star gated hotels.

a closer look at the intricate inlaid gems (there are rubies!) in the marble of the taj mahal.

after agra, we drove to delhi, where my husband (oh yes, did i mention my unbelievable husband traveled for two full days to join me for four days over a long weekend?) convinced me to take a bike ride through old delhi.  old delhi is literally the oldest part of delhi, a part of town full of markets each specific to meat, spices, marigolds, and fruit.  i was skeptical when we arrived at the crack of dawn in a seemingly unsafe area, and was even more skeptical after we signed waivers and pedaled down the butcher street past a minivan open to display inside a mystery carcass for sale.  and the skepticism peaked when we turned down a narrow alley, i lost my footing, and fell into a giant heap of trash (cutting my leg in the process).  i believe i cried, swore, and yelled at my husband all in one breath.  the tour guide motioned me to the front of the group so she could keep an eye on me (i was easily the worst cyclist of the group), and we continued on.

an early morning street scene in old delhi – so much going on here, including a potential electrical hazard.

from there, i am not exaggerating when i write that the bike tour of old delhi was one of the most incredible things i have done in my entire life.  my entire life!  it was a scene that i have only seen on television and have never experienced.  the smells and the colors and the bustle of people was unbelievable.  we passed markets and vendors and mosques and temples and soup kitchens and luxury hotels.  we stopped at a road-side cart selling chai tea to passersby, and against my better judgment i drank it (i was assured it was boiled and would therefore be fine, and it was!) and it was delicious.  it is with great regret that i did not have the foresight to purchase a go pro camera for my helmet, as my clinging to the handlebars did not allow for many photos.  we climbed to the top of a haveli to overlook the city and later ended our tour in the center of town eating delicious meats at karim’s.  it was marvelous.

living quarters above the spice market in old delhi. the spices were so potent that we had to cover our mouths to keep from choking as we climbed the stairs!

the words here don’t do it justice, but if you remember anything, remember that despite all the difficulties, just go.  it’s worth it.  i hope i see you there.

to read: in light of india by octavio paz, along the ganges by ilija trojanow

to watch: idiot abroad in india, slumdog millionaire, any bollywood movie

to visit next time: jaipur, goa

driving into agra from delhi.

my jaunts: paris

parisians line the canal st. martin during the summer months; one of my favorite places to visit

parisians line the canal st. martin during the summer months; one of my favorite places to visit

even with valentine’s day behind us, i continue to think back to one of my favorite and most romantic trips: paris.  yes, it’s a cliché and yes, everyone loves paris, but there is a reason it steals the hearts of so many; in my mind, it is simply perfect. and my most favorite parts were not the touristy parts that make paris so famous, but rather a few neighborhoods in the northeast part of the city that felt so removed from visitors (could it be true?) that i found myself returning again and again during our week in town.  i struggled with how to write about paris, so i went back to my trip journal so you can see it through my eyes.  i’ve chosen the parts that detail our time spent in my favorite arrondissements (aka neighborhoods in paris): the 10th, 19th, and 20th.  stay tuned for more posts about other areas, but these below were my very favorites.

image

8.4.15
we are in paris!  i love this city more than i would have thought.  we arrived on sunday afternoon after taking the train from stuttgart, and headed north to our hotel in the pigalle.  this was formerly a seedy area known for sex shops and crime, but is quite nice now and does not have many tourists (bonus).  our hotel – the astotel hotel joyce – is fantastic.  whimsically decorated with lots of light and pops of color, it is perfect for our stay.  the rooms are small by american standards, but i believe quite roomy by parisian standards (and free breakfast!).

our cheery room at the hotel joyce

our cheery room at the hotel joyce

after unpacking and settling in, we took the metro to the 10th arrondissement, which surrounds the canal st. martin.  i adore this area as it is filled with people (everywhere locals surround the canal with picnics and wine – people of all ages – no tourists).  lots of young people, as well.  somewhat of a hipster neighborhood, cafes and bars line the canal, along with boutique shops (most closed either due to being a sunday night or the august holiday when the town leaves on vacation).  one cafe that looked v. pleasing was the cafe du nord, based on the movie of the same name.

dining along the canal st. martin on a sunday evening.

dining along the canal st. martin on a sunday evening.

we bought a pizza at the pink flamingo, where they give you a bright pink balloon upon ordering take-out.  you can then go sit along the canal with your balloon and they will bring your pizza to you.  so charming.  parker ordered a beer and i asked the waiter if it was ok to drink along the canal.  he laughed and said “of course – everyone does!”  loving paris already.

waiting for our pizza from pink flamingo while enjoying the warm summer parisian nights.

waiting for our pizza from pink flamingo while enjoying the warm summer parisian nights.

i can’t reiterate enough how much i loved this area – locals are everywhere, sitting along the canals, strolling across the bridges, crowding the cafés, as if it’s required for people to come here on a sunday evening.  we walked around for a bit enjoying the scene before popping into le comptoir général, part bar, part vintage store, part experience, all hipster. the theme changes every few months and this month was 80s US movies (think: cocktail, the goonies, gremlins, breakfast club, etc.).  the bar is located in a giant building at the end of an unmarked alley.  it is separated into rooms with different themes and decorated with memorabilia from each movie.  most parisians, however, crowded outside in the small leafy courtyard to smoke.

waiting for a drink in a (then) 80s-themed le comptoir général

waiting for a drink in a (then) 80s-themed le comptoir général

we crossed the canal and settled in at chez prune, which seemed quite popular.  parker ordered red wine and i had strawberry juice [pregnant at the time] and we sat and watched the locals as it grew dark.  still no tourists – how can this be?  that evening, when we headed back to the metro, which is on a large square called the place de la république, we found a movie being screened and hundreds of parisians sitting in the square to watch.

a public movie screening at the place de la république.

a public movie screening at the place de la république.

8.7.15
today we spent our time back in the 10th arrondissement, which i just adore.  we first went to the père lachaise cemetary and saw the graves/tombs of chopin, jim morrison, gertrude stein, oscar wilde, edith piaf, and sarah bernhardt.  spectacular atmosphere, much like the cemetary in buenos aires, but hilly and lush.  v. green.  really enjoyed it.

sarah bernhardt's grave inside the père lachaise cemetary.

sarah bernhardt’s grave inside the père lachaise cemetary.

we  rode the metro back to the canal st. martin and had a perfect lunch at hotel du nord.  i had a cream of leek soup with a fresh salmon salad with watermelon and pineapple.  p. had a cucumber/ricotta starter with the lamb for an entree.  très bien.  the service was excellent.  no one spoke english – was a delight.  it seemed like the quintessential parisian experience.

delightful meals and friendly service at the hotel du nord café.

delightful meals and friendly service at the hotel du nord café.

we walked up the canal, stopping in a few cute stores along the way (loved the bookstore, artazart), until we reached the joeurs station.  in the summer, paris has a program called “paris plage,” where the city transforms certain areas of the river/canals into beaches.  we stopped at this one – la villette – for a look.  parisians reading in loungers in their swimsuits, children playing in the sand, a gelato stand from which we eagerly partook, games, boats to rent by the hour to explore the canal, etc.  v. lively and fun scene – also diverse.

the artazart bookshop was a true delight!

the artazart bookshop was a true delight!

8.8.15
well, as it turns out, i have a horrible habit of never writing down what happens on my last day of a vacation (i’m usually writing a day in arrears, and i’m too sad on the flight home to recount that last day).  so alas, i’m writing this part from memory.  on our last evening in paris, we headed to the parc des buttes-chaumont, in the 19th arrondissement.  it. was. perfect.  this park should be a stop for every person visiting paris!

parisians picnic in the park while overlooking northeast paris

parisians picnic in the park while overlooking northeast paris

it is stunning.  it was built in 1867 by jean-charles alphand, and is full of steep green hills that take your breath away (literally, climbing the hills really took it out of my 6-month pregnant body). there are tall trees, footpaths, a waterfall, a stream, a temple atop a plunging cliff (the path to the temple was closed when we were there, but we witnessed a few daring teens in the temple anyway).  people are picnicking, running, walking their dogs, visiting with friends, reading.

stunning cliff views with the temple atop the parc des buttes chaumont

stunning cliff views with the temple atop the parc des buttes chaumont

my very favorite part of the park, however, was rosa bonheur, a seemingly parisian take on the german beer garden, and what the parisians call ginguettes.  cheap wine, cheese, sandwiches, meats, and ice cream, while loud 20- and 30-something parisians eat, drink, laugh, debate, and smoke.  it seemed like the perfect place for happy hour, and an even more perfect place to rest our feet while gazing out at the lush landscapes and enjoying a nice bottle of rosé (ok, i ordered water, but the two women in front of me in line split a bottle of rosé and a tub of cheese – perfection?).  get there before 7pm or risk standing in line for longer than you’ll want.

waiting for our snacks inside rosa bonheur, a ganguette inside the parc des buttes-chaumont

waiting for our snacks inside rosa bonheur, a ganguette inside the parc des buttes-chaumont

**enjoy!**

valentine’s day gift guide for the ladies!

yesterday, i highlighted my favorite valentine’s day gifts for the man on the move.  today, i’ve brought together my favorite finds for the jet-setting ladies in your life.  i love every single one of these items, especially that vintage travel poster of the french riviera (dreaming of beach scenes from blustery wintery dallas right now).  i’m also intrigued by the “lost in translation” book that compiles beautiful words from around the world that do not translate into a single word in english – what a wonderful reflection on the different global cultures and the language required to communicate their unique characteristics.  happy valentine’s day!

valentines-day-gift-guide-women

1. lost in translation, $14.99  2. marlo crossbody bag from j. crew in neon orange, $98  3. adventure print from blackstar press, $15 for 8×10, not including frame  4. cedar street passport holder from kate spade, $78  5. 1950s vintage French travel poster from poster romance, $366.30  6. b&o play h8 noise cancellation wireless over ear headphones, $499  7. the transport tote from madewell (monogrammable!), $168  8. jet set candle in “bali” scent from jonathan adler, $28  9. the 500 hidden secret of paris, $25

valentine’s day gift guide for the gents!

it’s that time of year again when love is in the air!  <3   if you’re looking for something nice for the man who loves to get out of town, then look no further.  see below for a few of my favorite gifts for the man on the go.  i especially love that gorgeous time traveler watch from steven alan that allows the wearer to follow two time zones.  perfect for the long distance romance, as well?  enjoy!

valentines-day-travel-giftguide-men

1. travel cocktail kit from stephen kenn, $295 2. zebra animalia tray by jonathan adler, $118  3. time traveler watch from steven alan (program in two time zones!), $385  4. must eat nyc book, $24.95  5. the gentleman’s manicure kit, $27  6. neighborhood european map coasters (pictured: berlin), $36  7. 8×8 seattle print from archie’s press (many, many more cities available on his etsy shop), $22

stay tuned for an upcoming post on favorite gifts for the jet-setting ladies in your life!

my jaunts: mississippi

with only 18,000 residents, clarksdale, mississippi is the blues capital of the world

with only 18,000 residents, clarksdale, mississippi is the blues capital of the world

mississippi was one of the most memorable places we visited during our road trip of the deep south.  i wasn’t expecting this, as mississippi had never held a particular interest to me. yet here we were, snaking our way south along the mississippi river from memphis to vicksburg, through oxford first, then south through the mighty delta, with stops in clarksdale and yazoo city, before stoping in vicksburg for the night.  each stop was different from the last, but they all had one thing in common: you can only find these places in mississippi.  they are like nowhere else; a visit will surprise you.

downtown yazoo city

downtown yazoo city

oxford

oxford is one of those places that you can’t make up.  home of ole miss and southern gentility, it is also the literary home of the south.  we arrived mid-morning after an hour and a half drive from memphis and immediately drove to big bad breakfast for some classic diner eats.  this restaurant is run by the same people who opened city grocery (among others), an oxford staple housed on the town square.  the coffee was excellent and the spicy bacon was even better.  i highly recommend.

big bad breakfast in oxford, mississippi

big bad breakfast in oxford, mississippi

next we drove to the town square, where we visited three book stores: square books, off square books, and square books, jr.  square books is the grandfather of all bookstores in town and sits on a street corner that allows its second-floor porch to wrap leisurely around the building.  inside, the store is crowded with shelves, with books tucked in every possible square inch of space (my favorite kind of book store).  the second floor has a section devoted to local writers, with an entire aisle devoted to faulkner, who modeled his fictional town of yoknapatawpha county on oxford (faulkner’s home, rowan oak, is just south of town and open to the public).  i picked up an american insurrection, a book about james meredith and his fight to be the first black student at ole miss; the book was written by william doyle and was described by the employee as the single most important book written about oxford (bold claim?).  i’ll keep you posted.  we also stopped off at square book’s lifestyle book store, off square books, and their children’s book store, square books, jr., where i purchased the first two books for my son (who was still only the size of a small orange inside of me).

square books in oxford, mississippi

square books in oxford, mississippi – a true literary delight

before heading out of town, we drove through ole miss, seeing the famous grove where chandeliers are hung for football tailgates and fans dress more like they are attending easter church rather than an SEC conference game.  we saw the statue of james meredith, which made me even more eager to read the book i puchased at square books.  the inscription reads “courage,” “perseverance,” “oppportunity,” and “knowledge.”  with that, we waved goodbye, and headed southwest to the delta.

the statue of james meredith walking onto the campus of ole miss

the statue of james meredith walking onto the campus of ole miss

the delta

there is a saying i’ve often heard, to “thank god for mississippi,” because it means there is always a state lower than yours (unless, of course, you live in mississippi) in any type of positive measurement (test scores, graduation rates, health care, etc.).  not a great reflection of this southern state, and surely one that has tarnished its reputation over the years.  as we drove south through the delta, i saw a surprising number of sturdy, nice looking houses, small yet pleasant and all similar looking.  it took me about a hundred miles before i realized they all looked similar due to being government housing.  the people of the delta live and die by the state of the river; one bad year and there’s no money for anyone.  knowing that, and the  frustrating history of its slave-owning plantations, i understood how the blues were created deep in the heart of this fertile ground.

driving south through the mississippi delta

driving south through the mississippi delta

i had read that the drive down route 61 through the delta was one of the most beautiful in the US.  it is selected as a “best of the road” drive in my atlas, and kate spade’s “places to go, people to see” noted it as one of the top 15 scenic routes. however, our drive from a scenic standpoint was slightly disappointing (perhaps overhyped?).  while the open road and low crops lining the road were pleasant, it was not the beautiful horizon i had hoped for; perhaps may was the wrong time of year to drive through and another month with larger crops would be more beautiful.  the draw is definitely the people and towns along the way.

clarksdale

i had read about clarksdale in 36 hours, so we decided to make a stop.  this is the most bizarre town i’ve ever visited – seemingly in the middle of nowhere, with no thriving commerce to speak of, but clarksdale still thrives; not on industry, but on blues.  it is here that blues guitarist robert johnson is rumored to have sold his soul to the devil in exchange for the gift of blues.  a drive into the small town of just under 18,000 reveals a cobblestoned downtown that boasts the delta blues museum, several great restaurants, antiques stores, and cat head, a store filled with local artwork and hundreds of blues albums.  upon entering cat head, we were greeted by the sound of the longing blues, only to turn around and see that the shopkeeper was strumming his own guitar behind the counter – he later turned out, like most people in the south, to be a gifted storyteller, having a colorful story for every  album and photograph inside the store.

cat head delta blues and folk art in downtown clarksdale, mississippi

cat head delta blues and folk art in downtown clarksdale, mississippi

while most people (myself included) know that bbq rules the south’s stomach, i did not know about the importance of hot tamales.  and yes, i live in texas and eat my fair share of this husked delight, but i had no idea that tamales were such a part of the deep south (read more about hot tamales in the south here).  we stopped at hick’s, which was closed for dine-in, but the employee that day insisted we come in, as he directed us away from the drive-thru lane and unlocked the dining room.  if you’re ever passing through, do not pass up the mississippi hot tamale – they are smaller than the texas variety, so order several, and prepare yourself for some heat – these are no joke.

the back alleys of clarksdale, mississippi

the back alleys of clarksdale, mississippi

yazoo city and beyond

we briefly stopped in yazoo city as it is the hometown of my husband’s favorite writer, willie morris.  in his book, “north toward home” he tells his story of growing up in yazoo city and then leaving to become a writer in new york city.  what a change.  we didn’t get out of the car, but yazoo had a colorful and quaint downtown and seemingly a lot of churches (#biblebelt). we headed south again to vicksburg, a civil war town nestled on the banks of the mississippi, but at this point we were too tired to explore either the battle sites or the river.  should you find yourself in southern mississippi, another potential stop is biloxi, a town on the gulf with a shady strip of casinos, and the site of a husband and wife murder that is detailed in the book, mississippi mud, which i picked up at a book store in memphis.  what drama – it reads like fiction and tells the story of the true murders that killed vince sherry (a high-powered judge) and his wife, margaret, who was about to run for mayor.  without giving too much away, the story takes you through the biloxi goverment, hit men hired for murder, and multiple con men serving time in angola prison in louisiana; extremely difficult (and frightening) that this is non-fiction.

scenes from yazoo city

scenes from yazoo city

who should go: lovers of books, blues, and americana
what to read: the golden apples by eudora welty, an american insurrection by william doyle, north toward home by willie morris, mississippi mud by edward humes, practically anything by faulkner
what to listen to: muddy waters, sam cooke, ike turner

the famous grove at ole miss - this time, with no tailgaters

the famous grove at ole miss – this time, with no tailgaters

a southern jaunt: a road trip through the southern united states

southern-jaunt-2015

last spring, my husband and i traveled through the southern united states on a road trip.  4000 miles, nine states, and 17 cities later, we had seen a part of the country that we had never seen before.  the trip deserves multiple posts, but an overview is also in order.  starting in dallas we headed west to hot springs, arkansas, detoured in little rock for a quick trip to the clinton library, then headed north to memphis for several days.  in memphis, we visited the civil rights museum, which would unknowingly create a lens through which we viewed every city visited henceforth.  truly, truly a gem.  after learning about the roots of rock-n-roll and starting what would be a long study into southern bbq, we headed south into mississippi.

the civil rights museum in memphis, tennessee, at the site where mlk jr. was shot

the civil rights museum in memphis, tennessee, at the site where mlk jr. was shot

in one day, we paused briefly in oxford to visit the south’s literary capital and buy a few books at the fabulous square books store on the square, then headed southwest to clarksdale, the (probably official?) blues capital of the world. a brief description of this unbelievable town will not do it justice, so i will reserve my words for a later post.  snaking further south through the delta, we arrived in yazoo city, home of my husband’s favorite author, willie morris, before heading further south to vicksburg to stay the night.  if you have not previously visited mississippi, and also not visited the delta, it is a must.  if you don’t believe me, anthony bourdain has an episode on the delta that may just change your mind; it is very much like no where else.  it is here where i started reading eudora welty’s, the golden apples, a novel from 1949 about a fictional town in mississippi.  after visiting the civil rights museum in memphis, the book (and our travels) took on a new meaning: the south’s past is troubled and its future is somewhat complicated.  i went ahead and purchased a book about james meredith, ole miss’s first black student who risked his life for equal education, and wondered how that happened only 53 years ago.  who can tell what the next 50 years will hold?

a view of the square in oxford, mississippi as seen from the balcony of square books store

a view of the square in oxford, mississippi as seen from the balcony of square books store

venturing east the next morning, we stopped in tuscaloosa for (more) bbq before a brief stop for croissants and a visit to the oldest baseball stadium in america in birmingham, alabama.  we ended the day with family in atlanta, where the heaviness of the south was refreshingly lifted in the urban city and things seemed to return to normal for a couple of days.  driving into atlanta, we explored inman park (spoiler alert: loved), and lounged in the botanical gardens while reading more welty.

a quick jaunt to the inman park neighborhood of atlanta - very walkable and full of unique shops and restaurants

a quick jaunt to the inman park neighborhood of atlanta – very walkable and full of unique shops and restaurants

following several days of relaxation with family, we headed northeast to charleston, where the south reigned again.  charleston is a lovely city that almost seems fake (similar to the feeling i had when visiting georgetown, dc); it is filled with gorgeous colonial houses, cobblestone streets, and preppy boys donning sea green chino shorts with embroidered lobsters.  the food was amazing, as expected (bourdain’s been here, too), and we had an excellent tour guide in my husband’s lovely aunt.  the sea views were also quite refreshing – there is just nothing like the smell of salt water and the sound of crashing waves.

the picturesque college of charleston

the picturesque college of charleston

at this point, we were about halfway through our jaunt, so decided to head back.  turning westward, we also looked north and several hours later arrived in chapel hill, north carolina.  i do not even know where to begin with north carolina.  it is divine, and by far my favorite state of the trip.  lush, green, hilly, and clean (so clean!), still firmly rooted in the south, but with a bit of yankee sense.  we explored chapel hill, raleigh, and durham with the help of old friends, and then further explored winston-salem with even more friends.  what a fabulous place.  heading west from winston-salem, we entered the much-anticipated blue ridge parkway, the highway that snakes through the appalachian mountains.  this is an absolute must-visit for anyone who lives in the US (no excuses), and i do hope i can return some day for the fall foliage.  we ended our north carolina jaunt with a night in asheville, which is basically the next denver or austin (just wait) and also happened to feature the most amazing restaurant at which i’ve eaten in quite some time: curaté.  if you love spanish tapas, this place is the real deal.  much more on this gem later.

a quick break along the blue ridge parkway to take in the breathtaking views

a quick break along the blue ridge parkway to take in the breathtaking views

it is around this time that we began to tire of our nomadic life (shocker!). while i like to fancy myself an expert traveler, there really is no place like home.  we headed west through the gorgeous appalachians to nashville, where we spent several days exploring all of the hipster locales (i can’t wait to write about our adventures here) and ordering in food at night to rest our weary minds.  one last stop in fayetville and rogers, arkansas to see the absolutely stunning crystal bridges museum before we headed home.  this stop was a last minute decision and we almost nixed it due to our desire to head home,  but it was so close and i had heard such great things about the museum (founded by the walmart heiress, alice walton, from her personal collection), that we ultimately decided to add the extra night.  best decision of the trip.  this is a world class collection in a stunning building in the most unlikely place.  it is also free.  and did i mention stunning?  seriously, so very thrilled this level of art has been brought to middle america; everyone deserves access to the arts and this truly does not disappoint.  go!

inside the stunning crystal bridges museum in bentonville, arkansas

inside the stunning crystal bridges museum in bentonville, arkansas

after 15 days on the road, we headed back to dallas to our happy home.  what did i learn through my time in the south?  it’s complicated.  many places seem to still hold on to their storybook (for some) past, though those places are starting to see the futility of this choice.  while many places have since taken down the confederate flag, it still flies high in others.  the more urban areas have changed dramatically and offer truly exciting experiences with a diverse demographic.  nashville is no longer just for country lovers, and atlanta is much more than a cement-laden sprawling suburbia.  people are returning from the north to take advantage of more affordable costs of living and bringing with them new ideas and commerce that is changing the southern stereotypes.  i have a lot of hope for the south, and can’t wait to see what mississippi and north carolina are going to turn out in the next ten years.  but if you haven’t ever visited, do yourself a favor and plan some time soaking in the southern experience; it will definitely surprise you.

where are some of your favorite places in the south?

the gallery wall at the hatch show print shop, a local nashville institution

the gallery wall at the hatch show print shop, a local nashville institution

back in business

a parisian jaunt

a parisian jaunt

whoa boy.  not sure how this happened, but it has been seven months since my last jaunt post.  seven months!  i’ve missed writing so much, and after renewing my website for the next three years (we’re somewhat committed now), i felt like i may as well get my money’s worth out of it and write a few more posts.  let’s be honest, it’s my happy place.

as it turns out, some big things have been going on behind the scenes.  for starters, i’m expecting a baby boy in one month.  one month!  big news and the prep for said baby has taken up a significant amount of my free time (turns out you have to be prepared for another human to enter your life).  this is our first, so if any of you out there have any tips, they are all welcome.

quick shot in leuven, belgium after climbing the stairs to the library's bell tower.

quick shot in leuven, belgium after climbing the stairs to the library’s bell tower.

you’d think that would mean our travels would come to halt, but au contraire, mes amies.  in the time since i last wrote in march, my husband and i took a road trip across the american south, including arkansas, mississippi, alabama, georgia, south carolina, north carolina, and tennessee.  it was fantastic and i can’t wait to share my favorite spots with you.

one of many stops for the breath-taking views along the blue ridge parkway.

one of many stops for the breath-taking views along the blue ridge parkway.

then in july, we boarded a flight and headed to europe for one of the best vacations i’ve ever taken!  we visited friends in belgium, braved the unbelievably cold (and wet!) weather of amsterdam (one of my favorite cities now), partied at an amazing german wedding in stuttgart, and had an incredibly perfect week in paris.  i was not ready to come home to reality, but alas it happened.  such an unforgettable trip with so many new sites – much, much more to come on that.

the most delightful bar at the hotel du nord brasserie in paris.

the most delightful bar at the hotel du nord brasserie in paris.

finally, i’ve been traveling a lot for both work and family events – short trips to houston, san antonio, phoenix, tulsa, washington dc, and glen rose have made the summer a true delight.  fact: being pregnant does not mean travel ends (in fact, you actually get to skip a lot of lines during peak tourist season).  i’m finished with travel for the next few months, but excited to see what this new adventure in the form of an alien-like newborn has in store for me.  stay tuned for posts from the past seven months and hopefully some posts of the adventures of getting out and exploring with baby.

a piece of the berlin wall at the newseum in washington, dc.

a piece of the berlin wall at the newseum in washington, dc.

cheers!

my jaunts: 22 hours in new orleans

beats and jazz at maison on frenchman street

beats and jazz at maison on frenchman street

last week, i found myself in new orleans for exactly 22 hours.  per my flight itinerary, it was 23 hours, but that sneaky daylight savings time robbed me of an hour sometime during my two hours of “sleep” before i had to head to the airport.  i was in town for my sister-in-law’s bachelorette party, and fell in love all over again with the crazy city (city? does that even adequately describe the crazy hodgepodge that new orleans is?).  it has that vibe that i tried to explain a couple of months ago, that slaps you in the face the moment you leave the airport.  it’s poor but vibrant, seemingly down and up at the same time.

jazz, tourists, poverty. #neworleans

jazz, tourists, poverty. #neworleans

the 22 hours included a mix of typical new orleans events that may not be so normal elsewhere.  al fresco jazz brunch with morning bloodies and crawfish étouffée.  a second line wedding parade through the french quarter.  palm readings.

a second line wedding parade through the french quarter

a second line wedding parade through the french quarter

time for brunch and bloodies

time for brunch and bloodies

meeting adrian, an artist in the midst of his self-proclaimed mid-life crisis, with his enterprising dog who encourages his customers to “buy more art.”  watching hipsters practice a strange yet hypnotizing mix of yoga and acrobatics in jackson square.  enterprising break dancing and eclectic locals.

buy more art, people. specifically, from this guy.

buy more art, people. specifically, from this guy.

mesmerized by these guys at jackson square

mesmerized by these guys at jackson square

fried alligator and fried shrimp po’boys and abita beer.  creole mansions on esplanade avenue.  jazz on frenchman street, but most importantly the hybrid jazz/r&b/hip-hop that i fell in love with last summer at maison.  beads and cobblestones and lights and laughter.  but mainly, all that jazz.

the slick skillet serenaders

the slick skillet serenaders

french quarter still life

french quarter still life

twenty-two hours isn’t much, but it was enough to get under my skin a bit before returning to the real world.

bright day in the quarter

bright day in the quarter

the daily french quarter clean-up

the daily french quarter clean-up